Linguine with ramps, aka the illegal pasta

Bright, buttery and barely legal

Where do I even find ramps?
Ya I know. You hate me now.

In Quebec, l’ail des bois is protected—you’re allowed to pick up to 50 plants a year for personal use. Selling them? Big no. Restaurants work with micro-suppliers, but even that’s a limited drop.

Some of you might know people. People with gardens. Generous people. And some of you aren’t in Quebec and can just enjoy wild garlic as you please.

So because it’s the season and this pasta slaps I’m sharing the recipe anyway.

I love mixing bitter, briny, garlicky flavors. And yeah, I know this sounds like it’s heading toward a Puttanesca in bianco. Don’t get it twisted—she’ll get her own main character moment soon.

For now, ramps. We’re tossing in anchovies—if you’re into them, you’ll love it.
I’m also adding dandelion greens I had lying around, but arugula works.

This is actually a remix of a pasta I did with spigariello—not Italian green onions like I thought lol, but an heirloom Italian broccoli with leafy greens. I’ll tell you more when its season hits.

We start with a soffritto—the Italian holy trinity. It’s giving soul. Low and slow is the move here, you want it soft, sweet, a little jammy. Not burnt.

RAMPS SOFFRITTO

• 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

• 1 shallot, finely chopped

• Ramp stems (and bulbs if you got 'em), finely chopped

Heat a little extra virgin olive oil. Add your ramps stems (and bulbs if you got 'em), add a shallot, chopped. Cook on medium-low until everything’s soft and jammy.

That’s it. Now we turn this into pasta.

Em

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LINGUINE WITH RAMPS

FOR 2

• 250g fresh linguine 

• Ramp leaves, stems, and bulbs (if you have)

• 1 shallot, chopped

• 2–3 anchovy fillets 

• Ground chili flakes

• Juice of half a lemon

• 8–10 dandelion green leaves (or arugula)

• 2 small cube unsalted butter

• Extra virgin olive oil

• Lemon pangrattato, for topping

HOW

1. Boil a big pot of salted water and drop in your linguine. Cook until just shy of al dente. Save a fat mug of pasta water before draining.

2. While the pasta’s rolling, get a pan hot with a bit of olive oil. Add your soffritto (ramp stems and bulbs cooked down with shallots) with your anchovies. Warm it up on low heat until the anchovy melts into the oil, then hit it with a pinch of chili flakes.

3. Add your ramp leaves and toss until they just start to wilt. Splash in your lemon juice to brighten it all up. 

4. Toss your pasta straight into the pan with a good splash of pasta water to help the sauce come together. Add your dandelion greens (or arugula) and a cube of butter. Toss and swirl until glossy and coated.

5. Plate it up, sprinkle a good handful of lemon pangrattato on top, and send it straight to the table. No cheese. Keep it buttery and clean.

WORD

• Fresh pasta loves lots of water—don’t skimp on the pot size.

• If you don’t have dandelion greens, sub with arugula, chicory, even baby kale.

• Make a batch of pangrattato to keep on deck—it stays crispy for up to 1 week.

• You can swap linguine for tagliatelle, spaghetti alla chitarra, any long noodle slaps.

• Don't overcook your ramp leaves, 1–2 min max, you want them vibrant, not mushy.

• If your pasta water is salty, you won’t need to add more at the end. Taste it first.